Rising New Moon Studios

So yeah, Scarborough Faire is going on right now in Waxahachie, Texas and I finally go to go this past weekend.   And seeing as it's only the 3rd week, that's not so bad of a wait. But I wanted to show off my renaissance garb. The trousers are made from stretch corduroy which has such a small wale (size of the cords) that it actually makes them look almost velvety. I used Simplicity 4059 for the pattern and the only change I think I made was lengthening the leg. The doublet is made from some cool upholstery fabric I picked up super cheap at Hancock's YEARS ago when it closed down.  It's got a cool diamond/geometric pattern which isn't really period, but I don't care.... it looks cool. I used the same Simplicity pattern for the doublet (View A) but cut off the peplum at about 3 inches. I REALLY need to draft some of my own doublets because I've worn this to two faires and saw at least a dozen or so other men wearing this same pattern at each o

So I went on a Craft store tour and picked up a few things. See what I got!!! And a certain half started/completed mask of a certain Pumpkin King might make a brief cameo.

Good evening, Gentle Readers, Just a quickie blog before nappy time. I've made my first attempt into playing with resin and have one layer of fiberglass resin on the back side of Jack's mask. It's dried and I think it will be fine. But now I have to attempt the second layer. Then coat the outside... but step by step... I'm also planning a new doublet and hopefully a new shirt and some trousers for Faire. I bought this beautiful black and silver brocade from Jo-ann's. So I'm gonna make that McCall's doublet pattern that I saw 30 guys at TRF wearing (myself included). But I'm going to add my own spin to it... so hopefully it won't look so... generic? I really wish there were more good guys doublet patterns out there.... I guess it's time to start doing my homework and designing them myself. Ah well. And that's all the news I have for tonight. Ridiculous Resin and Repetitive Renaissance, Jason

HI EVERYBODY!!! So I know it's been awhile since I've worked on this, but I had All-con costumes to work on and a boatload of exams for Anatomy (Which I still have 4 more in that class that we have yet to take) so I have been a little distracted. But I've done some work as you can see in the above picture. I bought a palm sander to help speed up the sanding and I did an initial sanding on the mask. This brought out the low spots and thin areas. Which as you can see I've gone back and filled in with more paper clay. I've also gone in and worked the eye area... smoothing out and reinforcing the inner edges and such. They were pretty thin and delicate. Now they're a little more sturdy and I don't have to worry about them breaking. Lastly, I've added in the teeth to match the inspiration photos. When they dry, I'll cut out the "open" part of the mouth. Since the part inside the mouth is part of the mask, I'm only going to c

So apparently, I uploaded this but never posted this here.... opps. Silly me. Anyway. This is a great basic makeup with several useful applications. Personally, this the makeup I do when I'm walking around the con, competing in the costume contests, or posing for pictures. The products used are all listed in the video and out of my basic makeup kit (which you can find here ).

Unlike Part 1 of this tutorial.  Part two is still in rough draft mode.  I will revise and clarify this section when I have time. Okay. So now were going to get into the harder parts of the costume. Like the hip roll, the cuffs, and the sleeves. Hip roll thing: This will sound crazy, but you’re going to need one of those under the door draft blocker things... Well just the foam. I found a kit at Wal-mart that had 2 of them in a box for like 14 bucks. Anyway, there are 4 pieces of foam for each under door draft blocker (so there were 8 piece in the box) You’re going to take two of those and cut angles on the ends until they form the desired V-shape. I don’t know the exact degree of the angle, just shave away small angles until you get it to look right. Then I glued the ends together with E6000 and smeared the glue out away from the joint to form kind of a overlap over the foam (just for a little extra support surface adhesion). A few long straight pins will hold the angle